This is the wiring procedure to make your sidemarkers blink. When your parking lights are off, the sidemarkers will blink at the same time as the turn signal. When your lights are on, it will make your sidemarkers blink alternately with your turn signals. Not only does it look cool, but it helps to alert other drivers as to when you are making a turn or lane change. Safe and effective.
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Tools Needed:
You'll need a piece of electrical wire (10/15 cm) to serve as a jumper wire. According to Patrick Farrel, a BMW master tech working at a dealer in MD, you should always use a fused jumper wire. First, locate de diagnostic socket, at the engine compartment. There are two different types: up to 1987, it's located near the intake manifold, and has a red cap: When the glove box no longer opens it is time to change the latch. Other accounts on this topic that I have read were a bit vague so I tried to clear up a few things by writing this. The parts for this job should only cost about $20 (or equivalent), this is for the latch mechanism. If you go to the BMW dealer however, they will give you a price for the latch mechanism and opener handle with key, these cost approx. $60, so ask them for just the latch mechanism. I used a second-hand item for now (cost me equivalent of $3), but I would strongly recommend buying new. I got two units but before I even got the job completed the first unit gave up! (I have ordered new part).
Here are the procedures I used to completely flush and refill the cooling system on my car. BMW recommends that this be done every 2 years. I used BMW anti-freeze (at a hefty $14.75 per gallon) as this is highly recommended and I'm not one to be penny wise and pound foolish on these matters.
This information applies to a 1993 325iC E30 with a M20/B25 engine. Tool's required: a 8mm wrench, a 10mm wrench, a 19mm wrench, a screwdriver, 2 gallons of anti-freeze, and a shallow pan that'll hold at least 4 gallons. (you'll have right much anti-freeze left over. 1 gallon is not _quite_ enough for a 50/50 mix, and 2 gallons is way too much) jack up the front of the car and set jackstands, or drive up on ramps. You need room to maneuver. Put some newspaper or cardboard under the trans because it will drip ATF.
The trans has a small drain plug at the rear of the pan. Set the drain pan under the plug, open the plug with the hex key and drain the fluid. Now you can drop the pan. Notice there is a tube connected to the front of the pan. This is the fill tube, where the dipstick is. It tries to get in the way when you are replacing the pan; but disconnecting it could be more difficult. Around July/August of 2001, I decided to attempt the "big six" AFM swap. People often spoke of this swap, but no one that I talked to seemed to have actually done it, or had specific information on what was involved. I decided to go through with the swap, documenting both the procedure as well as the results. This way people would know exactly what is involved in the swap, as well as what they should expect as far as performance gains.
This is a list of things that are necessary to get real performance out of the M42 engine, mainly for street use, and the best part is - it will not burn a hole in your pocket. You may see items such as 4-throttle intakes, $3,000 stroker kits, and wild cams out there, but most of this stuff does not do much on a street motor (either that or it will cost too much), though they may give you some top-end on all out race motors. If you want your 318iS to really fly on the street, these are the things you need to do:
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