A little bit of background on the E36, which covers the ’92-’99 3 series models. According to Bimmer Magazine, BMW E30 (and prior) engineers used complex math equations and heavy field testing to figure out required strength and durability, then they would double or triple the outcome, resulting in a fairly bulletproof car. Not so with the E36, which proved to be somewhat less reliable than the models before or after it, for two main reasons. The E36 is the very first BMW in history to be designed on CAD, and instead of extensive testing, they relied on the program to determine how robust a part or system should be. Secondly, they were engineered with recycling in mind. Which is a bit of an irony, since many owners can make these cars last upwards of 250-300 thousand miles. That isn’t to say that the E36 is a shoddy Bimmer- they do more than live up to time honored BMW tradition, as the motors are quite strong, and light years ahead of the E21/E30 powerplants, along with numerous other significant improvements in comfort and performance. More »

EVO Magazine, E46 M3 CS
The CS is essentially an M3 that’s borrowed a few tasty bits from its exotic, expensive and now out-of-production CSL sibling. Bigger brake discs, the quicker steering rack, revised springs and those gorgeous 19in forged alloys.
They’re not quite as light as the genuine CSL rims but they still look great, and if the newfound composure and ride quality are anything to go by they’re definitely a whole heap lighter than the ubiquitous 19-inchers that regular M3s roll on. As well as the mechanical changes, the…
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This is the wiring procedure to make your sidemarkers blink. When your parking lights are off, the sidemarkers will blink at the same time as the turn signal. When your lights are on, it will make your sidemarkers blink alternately with your turn signals. Not only does it look cool, but it helps to alert other drivers as to when you are making a turn or lane change. Safe and effective.
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Tools Needed:
You’ll need a piece of electrical wire (10/15 cm) to serve as a jumper wire.
According to Patrick Farrel, a BMW master tech working at a dealer in MD, you should always use a fused jumper wire.

First, locate de diagnostic socket, at the engine compartment.
There are two different types: up to 1987, it’s located near the intake manifold, and has a red cap:
After 1987, you have to find a big round black plastic socket, with a cap held by a plastic strap, located near the oil dipstick (M20 engines) or near the firewall, driver’s side (M40 engines):
Pull the cap (early connector), or unscrew it (late connector), and you’ll see a number of connectors, depending of the type of plug (see the diagrams below). More »

This a quick summary of how to change the batteries for the service interval processor on E30 325’s. I don’t know how much is different with the 5/7 series, but I have a feeling is basically the same. You can also find an article on this is the November ’91 Roundel, but what follows is from my experience.

The processor is on a board mounted in the instrument cluster. The batteries are soldered to the board, and a dealer wants ~$200 because he replaces the whole thing.

To replace the batteries, first remove the instrument cluster from the dash. On the E30, that means first removing the plastic trim below the cluster (at the bottom of the dash just above the steering column) that exposes the bottom screws for a trim piece that wraps around the cluster (couple of screws on the bottom, couple up under the “eyelid”). More »

When the glove box no longer opens it is time to change the latch. Other accounts on this topic that I have read were a bit vague so I tried to clear up a few things by writing this. The parts for this job should only cost about $20 (or equivalent), this is for the latch mechanism. If you go to the BMW dealer however, they will give you a price for the latch mechanism and opener handle with key, these cost approx. $60, so ask them for just the latch mechanism. I used a second-hand item for now (cost me equivalent of $3), but I would strongly recommend buying new. I got two units but before I even got the job completed the first unit gave up! (I have ordered new part). More »

Here are the procedures I used to completely flush and refill the cooling system on my car. BMW recommends that this be done every 2 years. I used BMW anti-freeze (at a hefty $14.75 per gallon) as this is highly recommended and I’m not one to be penny wise and pound foolish on these matters.

This information applies to a 1993 325iC E30 with a M20/B25 engine.

Tool’s required: a 8mm wrench, a 10mm wrench, a 19mm wrench, a screwdriver, 2 gallons of anti-freeze, and a shallow pan that’ll hold at least 4 gallons. (you’ll have right much anti-freeze left over. 1 gallon is not _quite_ enough for a 50/50 mix, and 2 gallons is way too much) More »